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Tuesday, February 28, 2012

From MI to WA Part 2: the black hills

 Day three of our adventure began with the misty drive I told you of in part 1. Considering how often we stopped to take pictures and look around, it was a rather short trip to the exit. Our next destination was Black Hills, which include Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse Memorial and Custer State Park. But first we stopped at Wall Drug in the town of Wall, SD. It is a tourist destination with cute gift shops. We bought a freshly made doughnut and their famous 5 cent coffee, which I paid 21 cents for because they have a "to go" surcharge. The coffee tasted like dirty feet- but, what did I expect?

Mount Rushmore is beautiful. People kept telling me that it would be smaller than expected. I was actually most surprised by how close we could get to it. The carving was amazing- smooth as marble and beautifully done. Also, tickets are only $10 for a year pass! That was surprising, too. We didn't spend a lot of time at the monument because there wasn't a great deal to see other than the sculpture. There was a little museum, but we wanted to do a few other things that day, so we took some pretty pictures and headed out. My favorite picture is of the monument reflected in the windows of the museum.





This is the back side. You can drive along a road right behind the sculpture!


 The Crazy Horse Memorial was the next stop on our journey. It is unfinished but a marvel. All four heads of Mount Rushmore can fit inside Crazy Horse's head! The Memorial was begun in 1948 by Korczak Ziolkowski who was one of the sculptors on Mount Rushmore. He worked alone for many years, built his home, married and had ten children, seven of whom still work on the memorial today and two of whom became master sculptors like himself. He died in 1982.


The memorial has a large museum that was his house and workshop. There are many scale sculptures of his vision for the finished product. Eventually, the monument will be three dimensional with a plaque carved into one side. It is an incredible undertaking but truly amazing that one many did so much by himself. With only a sledge hammer, a single-jack drill bit and a box of dynamite, he moved 7.4 million tons of granite! I highly recommend seeing the museum and watching the video. You can also watch at: http://www.blackhillsbadlands.com/home/thingstodo/parksmonuments/crazyhorse



The sculptor and his wife.



One of my favorite of his other works.

 I had to get a picture of this cowboy family! I am from the Midwest and you just don't see a lot of cowboys in Michigan or Chicago. 

One of the fun things about the memorial is that they have a pile of the blasted rocks that you can choose from. We use ours as a doorstop!

There are also several vendors from the Lakota tribe who sell their handmade jewelry inside the museum. I bought a necklace and it has become one of my favorites. You have probably seen me wear it.

Next we went on to Sylvan Lake to hike! My husband  does not do well in cars for long periods of time, so when planning our trip I made sure to put a hike in the middle. We picnicked on the lawn of the lake before out hike. It was a beautiful day, not too warm; clear and sunny. 

After lunch we found another bug friend! He was enjoying the warmth of the sun on our car. We let him enjoy in and headed for the trail head to Harney Peak!
 This is a panorama of Sylvan Lake. Kids were jumping off some of the smaller rocks as we walked.

This was taken about fifteen minutes into our hike. In the far distance, you can see the point to which we are heading. In the far, far, far distance! Harney Peak is the highest point East of the Rocky Mountains and West of the Pyrenees in Europe! And we were trying to hike it!

Below are a series of photos of our hike, including a zoomed in view of the summit from this point.










 Proof that we made it! The hardest part of the hike was the last 100 yards. I told Edward to go on ahead of me, so he was enjoying the view long before I reached him. The last bit was all stairs! Everyone whom I passed during my climb gave words of encouragement like "It is worth it!" They were all sweaty and panting but looked exhilarated, as well. I knew I was going to the top no matter how tired I was. It would be worthless to have hiked so far and quit before the summit! I  told someone as much on my way back down.



 Yes, that is the side of Mount Rushmore! You can see the parking ramp to the right. This is a slightly zoomed picture.

After enjoying our success and resting for a while, we headed back down. There are several paths going in and out, so we decided to take trail 4 out as we had taken trail 9 in. We got to see some really cool rock formations and also met a nice family who were lost. We had a trail map with us but no water- so they shared their water and we shared directions. Behind Edward in the picture below is one of the people we met. She had grown up in South Dakota but now lived somewhere else and was visiting her family. She was hiking with her step father, niece and grand niece. She and I chatted quite a bit. In this photo, you can see her niece in the yellow shirt.
 The views were amazing and we thought we knew where we were going. We followed the path down a steep incline and came across a trail marker. We hadn't seen one for quite a while and were getting nervous. Well, the marker told us that we were no longer on trail 4! The inline had not been part of the trail at all. It was left over from a mudslide.

The new trail let out on a main road and not Sylvan Lake. The family we had been walking with decided to go to the road and call for a ride back to their car. They offered us a ride, but Edward was determined to hike out. I didn't want us to get separated, mostly because we have only one cell phone. But I was tired and dehydrated and according to the map had a couple more miles to hike- not to mention getting back up the mudslide! But my husband encouraged me and we kept going.

A couple of hours later we finally made it to the trail head! Edward ran ahead to get me some water from the convenience store at the lake while I plodded on slowly toward civilization. Lesson learned: always take water with you while hiking! Before Edward returned with the bottle, I ran into the niece we had been hiking with. She offered me some of her water again and we both expressed happiness at knowing the other found their way out of the wilderness. 

After a long drink, we headed toward out campsite. I had booked it from Michigan and the internet said that there were showers at the site. Not only were there no showers, there were only pit toilets. This is not really a problem except that I was tired and sweaty and we had stayed someplace with no showers the night before. Also, it wasn't what we had expected and that made it harder. Still, we set up our tent and then decided that camp food was not going to cut it after such a hard hike. We needed protein! We were nearly half an hour from the nearest lodge, but we called to see if they were still open. It was 8:34 and they closed at 9. The woman on the phone said to hurry on over and she would make sure we could eat. We arrived just before 9 and felt bad because they were already mopping and beginning to close up. They were kind, however, and made Edward a pizza and me fish and chips. It was wonderful just to have a hot meal! 

Afterward, we went back to our campsite and to sleep. Our site was on a slight incline, so I had to keep scooting up. We were plenty tired, though, so we dropped off quickly. We woke early the next day and headed toward the Blue Bell Lodge for their buffalo tips and egg breakfast which had been hailed by Food Network magazine as the best breakfast in South Dakota. On the way we saw this guy.
 I'm pretty sure he knew I was going to eat his brother for breakfast! He didn't seem to care very much, though, and let us be on our way. It seemed like a big deal at the time, seeing a buffalo in the wild. That was because we hadn't gotten to Wyoming yet and Yellowstone National Park. But that will be in part three. For now, enjoy a few more looks at South Dakota.



Friday, February 24, 2012

From MI to WA Part 1: the badlands

In July of 2010, my husband, Edward, and I moved from Allendale, Michigan to Spokane, Washington so he could take a job at Gonzaga University. This was an epic trip for both of us, as we had never seen most of the states we would be driving through, nor had we ever been to the Pacific Northwest. This would be an adventure and we were both excited about the things we were going to see, places we planned to visit and the unexpected sights along the way. This is part one of a series, so I can share scads of photos with you.
 We left Michigan on Wednesday, July 28- my husband's 35th birthday. Our first stop, which is not pictured, was Madison, WI. We have several friends who live there and we wanted to see them one last time before leaving the Midwest indefinitely. There happened to be a concert on the lawn of the capitol building by the symphony orchestra and the ballet. It was beautiful and so was the weather. We picnicked with friends and then went back to their apartment to have tea and pie. I always make my husband a peach pie for his birthday, so my dear friend Alexis made one.

The next morning I had breakfast with other friends in the same building and then we left for the real adventure- leaving all known states behind and heading toward Iowa and South Dakota. Here is a list of things we saw along the way:
  • The world's largest bull head in wood
  • White cows
  • A six ton gopher
  • A dinosaur on a leash
  • A sign for "Dick's 24 hr Toe Service"
  • Two more incorrect signs: "The Corn Palace- Bushel's of Fun" and "Whoa n' Go" (why doesn't anyone know how to use apostrophes?)
  • Corn
  • Wind turbines (as pictured above)
  • Construction
 We stopped at several rest areas because I drink a lot of coffee. At one we found the above cute chapel. It was kind of in the middle of nowhere in Iowa (note the fields of flatness in the background). Inside we found a small pulpit, a few benches, some books and several tracks- including one that was printed in Grand Rapids, MI! This really shouldn't have surprised us, as we have several Christian publishing houses and ministries centered in West Michigan. But we were leaving home behind and were happy to find that it reached at least that far West.

We spent a little extra time at this stop, walking the paths and praying/reading in the chapel. We wondered how it came to be there and who had used it over the years. It was a nice, quiet stop, especially since change is a form of chaos, and we were in for a lot of change.

 Then we hit the badlands!


This is the first thing we saw after more than an entire state of flat corn fields.




It was breathtaking. It left me speechless. Edward and I wandered around the park entrance each alone and just looked in silence, coming together for a quick photo and then moving on to another pull out area to wander in silence again.

I took over 100 photos of the badlands and it was very difficult to choose which ones to post. Below are a few that I couldn't resist posting. The rest are on facebook or in my personal photo library. Feel free to check the facebook photos out if you don't get enough beauty here.






Edward set up our new tent, purchased for this trip, at sunset. I wandered around the campsite and snapped the beauty. The sun was setting in a clear sky to the West while a storm was brewing to the South. It came close, but never over us. I watched the dark, ominous clouds as they gave a light show and then a rainbow.

We ate dinner, some camp food we brought along, and watched the rest of the show together. It was peaceful and amazing.




Edward found a friend on the trunk of our car. We both like bugs, so I took a few pictures of him.














This is what we went to bed to.

And this is what we woke up to.




That isn't exactly right. I woke up before the sun, which is saying something in July! I work for Starbucks, so I am used to being up early. We had also crossed two time zones and the ground was rather hard.

The sky was clear when I woke up. I got out of the tent, used the nicer than expected restroom facilities, ate some breakfast and journal-ed (that should really be a word) while the sun started to rise. As I ate my granola bar, I watched the grey dawn light begin to peek over the mountains at the edge of our campground and then watched it become completely obscured by a wall of mist! It traveled so fast that there was hardly time to be alarmed. It was beautiful and scary at the same time, a true definition of awesome! Then the light broke through.


The sun rose in a magnificent splendor of mountain and mist. We wanted to watch it for hours, but as the mist passed over us an on to the West, we realized that we were going to have to drive through it! We quickly packed up the car and headed out, chasing a cloud and yet in the midst of it.

Parts of the road were horrifying. It swerved and switched back with two narrow lanes, no guard rails, and steep drops off on each side. We even missed the prairie dog village due to the dim.



And then we began to drive down hill and this is what we saw! I have never seen a sky so blue before. The rocks looked less red and orange in this light and there was more vegetation than before. We pulled out at almost every pull off parking area to gaze at the amazing views. God paints the most incredible pictures. My eyes almost hurt from the loveliness of His creation.

We saw some wildlife up close, as well; mostly deer and gopher-like creatures. It was an amazing day.







We went from mist and fear to beautiful blue sky to more mist with less fear to more beautiful blue sky as we descended from the high shelf of the badlands to the valleys below the Black Hills. We were on our way to see Mount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial. They would be impressive works of man's hand. But this was more amazing by far and a life changing beauty. We would see more of God's wonders in Yellowstone National Park on the fourth day of our journey. But that is a future post. For now, enjoy a bit of what we saw and wonder.













So long for now.